Jabal Nur | The Mountain of Light

We decided a bit abruptly to do the mountain ascent to the blessed Cave of Hira, where the Prophet ﷺ first received prophecy. Looking back, if we get the chance to do it again, I'd rather go far, far earlier in the day, to avoid ascending/descending in the noon heat. But it all worked out!

I vividly remember driving over to the mountain in a taxi, marvelling at how far it would have been to walk there from Mecca. And then...we saw the mountain. And the closer we got to it, the taller it appeared, and the smaller the people ascending it looked.

I was very daunted. I'd had no idea it was a mountain mountain. I think I'd been envisioning a tall hill or something but wow. We gathered our courage, were grateful we'd packed water, sunhats, and sachets of electrolytes, and parked.

...On a hill leading up to the mountain, with a slope so steep you almost had to use your hands to ascend! You can see in the picture how slanted the cars were. After sharing a few nervous giggles...we began.

It was a serious hike, and the height was dizzying, even for me, and I don't have a strong fear of them. Steps had been cut/built into the mountain, zigzagging their way up, with railings...usually. There were vendors selling fruit and water at intervals, under tents and awnings. We passed all sorts of people. Elderly folk, children, babies. (We were so glad we'd left my niece at the hotel with her grandma).

I marvelled at the footwear and outfits people had donned. We hadn't been prepared, sure, but we were far more prepared than some others, who I felt really bad for. I remember a vendor taking another climber's young child on his back while his dad focused on just getting himself up the mountain.

Me and my sister-in-law decided early on that we would be taking our sweet time climbing, so as not to quite literally pass out. So while her brother and sister-in-law raced ahead with all the vigour of people way more in shape than either of us, we climbed one step at a time, taking breaks to catch our breath and aggressively fan and hydrate ourselves and enjoy the beautiful view.

It was, I must say, a far longer climb than it looks, and it already looks like a serious climb. Every time we thought we'd reached the top, we'd round a bend and see...more mountain. I won't lie, it got a bit despairing, but no way were we giving up when we'd put so much effort in already. And then we got to the top.

And it was breathtaking.

The view of the Ka'ba is unfortunately blocked by that horrible ugly clock tower. Still, the summit was incredible, and we were experiencing a muted sort of euphoria for having made it, and to be at the top overlooking an incredible and blessed vista, and for knowing that the Prophet ﷺ climbed and stayed on that very mountain, and an angel descended upon it with the Quran.

Mindblowing.

The Cave of Hira is actually a little lower than the summit, meaning you have to climb down a bit once you get to the top.

It was a narrow little stairway absolutely packed with people and also baboons, so I opted not to go. I....kind of regret that? To go all that way and not go to the cave itself....

But it was so narrow and so many people were trying to get in and truly, I worried I'd fall right off the mountain. So I decided being in proximity and on the mountain itself was enough. We sang praises of the Prophet ﷺ (attracting attention of people who thought we were performers, but what can you do), prayed, took photos, and then started the climb down.

The Cave of Hira

...The descent was harder. The descent was so much harder. For one thing, you're fighting gravity and it's steep. For another, it was noon and the sun was blazing down. I felt like I was cooking inside my own skin. I had to sit and scoot down at some points and wished that I'd had a cane to lean on and steady me. At some point midway, I saw just how much farther I had to go and quite seriously considered just lying down and never moving again. My knees felt like jelly. I was starting to get really anxious about how sick I was feeling. In hindsight, I may have had a bit of heatstroke.

But I made it, clearly. I do not think I'll ever do it again...but I also want to try? And this time go to the Cave itself. God willing I'll be invited back!