- Published on
I used to be really snobby about photoshopping photos. I used to think, well, that’s not how it really looks, why should I make it look prettier or different from what it is? But photography is an art, and photoshop is an artist’s tool.
I still try not to play with it too heavily unless I’m doing a certain type of project, but photoshop and other photo editing software can come in very handy. Here are some before-and-after shots edited with Lightroom and photoshop, (left is before, right is after).
I still try not to play with it too heavily unless I’m doing a certain type of project, but photoshop and other photo editing software can come in very handy. Here are some before-and-after shots edited with Lightroom and photoshop, (left is before, right is after).
Here I changed the colour temperature to make the pink in this plant pop a little more, and to make the greens match what I saw in real life.
Playing around with 'shadows' and 'blacks' made this photo more interesting.
I liked the original, but some experimenting gave me this bluer, colder image, and I liked the ethereal quality of it more.
Exposure adjustment made this photo go from boring to interesting.
By adjusting the 'highlights' and 'shadows', this photo achieved an HDR effect that really enhanced all the details and textures.
I loved this photo, but I found the presence and glare of the sign and mail slot to detract from the overall antique effect of the doors, so I photoshopped them away.
These are just some examples of how photo editing software can be used to enhance the photo you take to match your vision or aesthetic. Still, photoshop can't do everything; it's important to take a good photograph.
- Published on
This series of interconnected greenhouses were visited as part of an 18th birthday gift for a friend. I'd never been before, and was pleased that it turned out to be a fantastic place, with few visitors (because it was Monday morning) and a touch-all-you-want vibe.
An attempt at fake HDR using Lightroom 4. I love the effect! Also, it's a banana tree! With actual bananas!
This is asparagus, which is a strangely pretty plant.
The prettiest flower I've ever seen...
We eventually left the tropic section and came to the desert section. The transition from tropic heat to desert heat could be clearly felt. The air was dry and the plants bristled beautifully, if dangerously.
Then we took a closer look at the gardens outside the greenhouse, which were just as beautiful, if a little more wild.
Having explored to our hearts content, we then trekked through the heat to the Harbourfront, were we took a ferry to Centre Island (which contains more than an amusement park, namely: a beach with actual sand). Photo opportunities appeared the moment we stepped on the ferry.
My favourite faux-HDR attempt.
When we landed on the islands, we headed straight for the sand, stopping occasionally to peer at one thing or another. We lazed, watched gulls watch us for food, and then explored the Centre Island Farm (a mini-zoo, really).
Kids and Gulls
Sassy lama...
The prettiest cow I've ever seen, so I included her (him?) three times.
Vogue duck - just look at that pose!
Blue-eyed goat!
Prettiest Peacock
Our day ended with the moon blazing orange as the sun set.
- Published on
Lighting and Photography
Photography is using light to make pictures. It stands to reason that if you want to take a good photo, then you need to understand lighting. Speaking from my own experience, and with the caveat that I’m still learning and I have only ever used a digital camera, here are some things to keep in mind.
Types of Lighting
Sunset/Sunrise: the holy grail of light for photography. This light is soft and flattering, giving you a dreamy feel to your photography. The light source (the sun) is not high enough in the sky to give you harsh shadows or strong details, the colours slowly become richer as the sun rises, and the sky looks like someone spilled watercolours over it.
Cloudy: The sun’s light will filter through the cloud layer so it falls evenly and softly. This is called diffusion. Portraits look great when the light is diffused (when the light is not a harsh ray) because it doesn’t highlight the lines and imperfections in human skin. (Which is still a good look if it's what you're aiming for; this is an example).
You can create diffused light by pointing your light source at a wall, a ceiling, or other blank canvas and having your subject face the wall/ceiling/blank canvas. Fabric over or in front of your light source also diffuses light, but please be aware of fire hazards.
You can create diffused light by pointing your light source at a wall, a ceiling, or other blank canvas and having your subject face the wall/ceiling/blank canvas. Fabric over or in front of your light source also diffuses light, but please be aware of fire hazards.
Notice the curtains? Strong sunlight from outside filtered through the gauze to create a lovely, even flow of light.
The farther away the light is from the subject, the more diffused the light, but the lower the power of the light. This can cause your camera to compensate by having a slow shutter (I'll talk more about what that means later).
Another type of cloudy light is when the sun’s rays are bleeding through cloud breaks. A portrait taken at the right moment can make your subject look like s/he is about to ascend to heaven, or that s/he got smacked in the face with a spotlight. It’s a tricky light to manoeuvre around, and I use it mostly for landscapes, sky shots, or architectural photos.
Another type of cloudy light is when the sun’s rays are bleeding through cloud breaks. A portrait taken at the right moment can make your subject look like s/he is about to ascend to heaven, or that s/he got smacked in the face with a spotlight. It’s a tricky light to manoeuvre around, and I use it mostly for landscapes, sky shots, or architectural photos.
Notice the angle of light as it slipped between clouds...
Fun fact: these are 'crepuscular rays', but most people call them 'rays of God'.
3. Midday: This is strong lighting, because the sun is at its highest and is beaming down with all its might, creating harsh shadows if your face is not tilted at the right angle. Your model might end up squinting if you position them with the sun facing them and behind you, so keep that in mind. Dramatic shadows might be the look you’re going for, in which case, this is a great light. If you want to alleviate the shadows on a person’s face cast by this kind of light, use flash.
My parents being cute, but squinty.
Hey look, shadows! Also, a better (but not great) use of midday light.
4. Indoor: This is typically when light isn’t that bright. Your photos might turn out blurry because the shutter is staying open longer. This is because it's trying to capture the most amount of light. Note that what a camera considers to be too dark is not what the human eye considers to be too dark. If you take a photo and end up with blurry photos or a camera that seems frozen for a few seconds, that usually means the lighting is low, and with some practice you'll be able to sense this yourself before you whip out your camera.
In this situation, you can either change the light, or adjust the way you work with the camera. If you go with the second option, then here are a few tips:
In this situation, you can either change the light, or adjust the way you work with the camera. If you go with the second option, then here are a few tips:
- Keep your camera (and yourself) steady: use a tripod, brace yourself against a wall, brace your camera on something solid, or adjust your stance. Here are some tips on how to hold your camera. Even slight tremors in the hands impact the sharpness of your photo (which could be a look you’re going for).
- Use flash: this adds light to your photo which means your camera shutter doesn’t need to stay open so long in order to absorb the light. This might not turn out all that nice, so bring a lamp near to your camera or the subject of the photo.
- Be aware of colour: I’m talking about light colour. Sometimes indoor photos end up looking yellow. Change your white balance setting (most cameras have one) to tungsten, or adjust in post-processing. Yellow photos make the photo look warm; blue makes the photo look cold. This can be great depending on what mood you’re trying to capture (think: birthday candles).
Yellow, warmer lighting. (Which doesn't work here).
Colder, bluer lighting. (Which does work here).
And there you go! You've just taken a crash course in the basics of lighting and photography. Got any questions/concerns/I-don't-know-whats? Then drop a comment below! Thanks for reading!